I heard a lot about Albania in the last years. I heard that it had some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, also that it’s way less touristy and much cheaper, too.
So my plan for Albania was to ride along the coast and stop at every pretty beach I find.
Spoiler: all the most picturesque coastal roads and the best beaches are in the south. And the more south you go the more beautiful it becomes!
My personal top favorite Ksamil looks 💯 as a tropical paradise. I’ve heard it’s super busy in summer but in November it’s just perfect!
Himarë is very pretty, too, but feels very lonely during off-season.
Compared to Himarë, Sarandë is a much better town base during this time of the year, it’s not too busy but neither is it empty. Plenty of restaurants are open, the food is delicious and cheap, sunshine and 20+ degrees make it very pleasant to spend a couple of hours on the beach end even go for a swim, followed by a walk down the promenade, a cup of iced latte at the seafront and a beautiful sunset.
And then there are quite a few cool places right outside of the city:
📍Ksamil beaches that I mentioned above
📍Butrint ancient city
📍Butrint national park
📍The Blue eye
📍Llogara national park
Albania is more than a beautiful coastline and beaches! It’s a lot of cute towns scattered around mountains and along canyons, with magic castle views, with goats and sheep on the road, with genuinely kind and welcoming people, who would go out of their way to help you!
Once you stop expecting European standard of comfort and efficiency, stop relying solely on GPS directions, and give into adventures and exploring the real Albania, with its weird mix of chaos and tranquility at the same time, then you’ll fall in love with this beautiful country and its beautiful people!
I really wouldn’t mind spending a full month around October/November in Sarandë next year! Or should I maybe consider it for the spring… 🤔😄
Albania step by step (I spent three weeks riding around Albania, so get ready for quite a few video reports 😅):
28. Budva 🏍 Durrës
Crossed the border to Albania.
Forget everything I said about the crazy drivers in Montenegro! Or don’t forget, rather multiply it by… at least 6! In the end of the video there’s a little taster of the super chaotic driving in Shköder 😵💫
Bottom line: you never know who will do what the next moment, be ready for anything. Having riding experience from Asia definitely helps!
29. Durrës 🏍 Berat
Once you stop thinking of Albania as Europe, and start thinking of it as let’s say Cuba, everything becomes easy and fun!
Two cars going in opposite directions suddenly stop in the middle of the road next to each other blocking all the traffic – they just want to say hello and talk for a bit, what’s the big deal?!
Navigation doesn’t work – who cares?! Just ask random people and they will try their best to help! Everyone is so kind!
Even when I almost broke into a military base (I was looking for abandoned MiGs), I ended up having a nice little conversation with the guards there 😄
The abandoned MiGs are no longer accessible unfortunately, could only see a little bit from behind the fence.
Made it to Berat and found a little guest house right in the center, where the owner kindly offered to keep the 🐝 inside his shop!
I start really liking Albania!
30. Berat 🏍 Çorovodë
Not too far from Berat is the Osumi canyon, and I really wanted to see it. Riding mountain roads, observing gigantic rocks and crossing funky bridges make me happy.
31. Çorovodë 🏍 Vlorë
Back down the canyon road to Berat and then on to Vlorë, with a bit more of exploration on the way! Crossed a few funky bridges, hiked to a pretty waterfall, and hitchhiked a road roller 😄
Albania is adventures!
32. Vlorë 🏍 Himarë
Yes! Yes! Yes! Thank you Albania for this road between mountains, above clouds, through pine forest and down to the coast!! Amazing ride! 🤩💛
33. Himarë 🏍 Sarandë
Short but sweet and sunny ride down the south coast of Albania. With smooth curves and gorgeous views just the way I like it!
34. Sarandë 🏍 Permët (3 days round trip)
I had a couple of days to kill before the ferry, so why not explore a bit of mountains and canyons?! Especially if there are hot springs!
Stopped in Gjirokaster for the sunset, hiked the canyon and spent a good hour chilling in a not-so-hot but very thermal pool (according to one local guy, the water in those hot springs has 60 minerals and is extremely beneficial for one’s health). Well, I don’t know about that, I woke up with a sore throat next day, which might have had something to do with me hiking the canyon barefoot and crossing the cold mountain river somewhat around 20 times 😅
Amazing trip, new adventures, gorgeous landscapes, and a super fun road with multiple goats, sheep and what not 😁
35. Sarandë 🏍⛴🏍 Tarento (leaving Albania)
Said goodbye to Albania, enjoyed the last scenic ride towards the border with Greece, met some sheep on the road (how could it go without them?!).
Border crossing was fairly easy, got checked the PLF twice (it’s a form one has to fill out online prior entering Greece, new covid related rules). Showed vaccination certificate, and still had to take a rapid antigen test (they do it for free on the border).
Watched a beautiful sunset and arrived to Igoumenitsa for the 1AM ferry… which got delayed until 7AM.
A long night at the port sleeping on the bench…